Touring Hotel Tugu, Malang
I want to share something else beside foods. It's about my very-short-trip to Malang, East Java, Indonesia. My family and i went to Malang to visit distant relatives who are sick and hospitalised there. It was second day of Eid Mubarak holiday so i understand if went out of town is not a good idea, and we might trapped in traffic jam. But i had no idea that we would spend 5 hours on road from Surabaya to Malang. I felt my butt burned. We arrived in Malang at 1 p.m., had lunch then went to RKZ hospital until 4 p.m. Then, because we had been here with struggle, we decided to go for some entertainment. We went to Matos (Malang Town Square) but i didn't impressed, tho (because Surabaya has many of malls and i won't expect that mall there will be bigger than malls in Surabaya, no offence).
It was about 6 p.m. when my father got message that our temporary maid had to go home because her child was sick but she definitely can't leave the house alone. So my father, very bewildered, asked to go home right now. But then, my cousin said to us that my other cousin who had gone home since 5 p.m. were stuck in unbelievable traffic. They had not passed Lawang (Lawang is a small city, close to Malang). My father was still insist to go home - he made me speechless just to convince him to stay and went home later after the traffic subsides, he never likes trip, tho.
He thought the traffic would not be that severe.
So we had headed home and joined the traffic. About for half hour, i was not sure that we had moving for 30 meters. I think less, only 15 meters. So we turned around, thank God we still found a U-turn, and went back to the City to look for foods.
After dinner, my cousin asked me what we would do after this, waiting the traffic. I had no idea to name one cafe or place if you asked me because i rarely go to Malang. All i ever knew is Toko Oen with their famous ice cream, so i thought it would be perfect. My father's friend, my cousin and my dad were once lived in Malang. They agreed to go there and named the road. Near hotel Tugu, they said.
When we got there, i went to the bakery to see what i can have. But we ran of stock. I did not blame the store because it was quite late, we got there at 8.30 p.m. I saw the sign, it was written 'Und', not 'Oen'.
Well.. i don't think i made it to the famous Toko Oen, but no regret. Here i tell you about Hotel Tugu.
Tugu Hotel was built in 1991. It was not a big luxurious hotel like Shangri-La or Novotel or any five stars hotel you could imagine. The gate isn't that big, and everything was authentic. I mean, literally authentic. It's like a museum, with tons of historical heritage. The owner is a collector, and this hotel is more like his showroom. Yes, it is a beautiful yet terrifying hotel.
|"The Sleeping Shepherd"|
A young shepherd is asleep and dreaming of having surrounded by his beautiful lovers. Simple and beautiful, this is the romance of Indonesia.
|Le cousins and big bro|
If you are a religious fanatic, moreover a catholic-christians, you might say this place is cursed. But i would say that this place is protected than cursed.
I turned around i saw more place to discover..
The restaurant behind my back when i took this photo was quite noisy. But when you get to this space, you will feel lonely. Nobody's here, even the door wasn't closed and there's a window so you still can look the waitresses walked around, however you still feel very quite. When I captured this, the giant clock echoed, and gave me chills. I looked around and i found my niece, thankfully, and i called her to come joining me (re: accompany me).
If this hotel has a guide that will explain to you all about this historical relief, i will be happy. An old big Garuda (Symbol of Indonesia), old painting of Soekarno - first president of Indonesia, unknown lady, and all of those stone sculptures. I was thinking to ask one of the waitresses but i canceled my intention.
And when turned into next room, it shocked me.
That lady. There.
Sculpting, as she welcomed you with her pierced and cold gaze, and her long black hair.
My brother and niece and nephew when in to see around the room. I stood at the doorstep, amazed if i could say, and quickly took picture and recorded. I didn't go inside, i didn't want. When we went back to the cafe, i kept saying i know that lady, or that painting was famous, i had seen it somewhere else.
Later then, i found someone on instagram posted a photo of that painting with caption Oei Hui Lan. All of sudden i remembered. Oei Hui Lan, daughter of the richest man in Asia, died in 1992. She spent her childhood in Semarang, Middle Java, Indonesia. I had read her biography. And of course, that famous painting of her was in the book. It was believed that this painting, with unknown painter, is the last relic of her, stored in Hotel Tugu, and haunted by her. In the book, it said that one of her father's concubine had ever lived there after Oei Hui Lan died, and left the painting there. I can look at her painting from google or printed in book as long as i can without feeling intimidate (except little bit creepy because her hair was very long and black, and wearing all white, made me remember of Indonesia's folk gosht). I don't know it's just my feeling or i was too shock, when you see the real painting, her eyes will intimidate you, challenging, and i chose to not look back. You can search on google about her and her mysterious painting (no, i won't post it here) and some people said that it is true that the painting is haunted. Seems exaggerating because my other cousin who ever came here said there's no problem with the painting. Well, people had different view. And i choose to say that the painting is not haunted, but as i said before, protected.
The weirdest thing is, after we finished talking and all of my family decided to tour the hotel together, we went back there to show them but the room was closed. Well, it's not weird, in fact it was almost 11 p.m. But only that room. We had went inside the hotel (i have no idea if i have to stay here. I think i won't sleep all night), and no doors, except hotel rooms' of course, were closed. Only the room with Oei Hui Lan painting. Before i realised something, my brother glanced at me and said creepily,"Well, maybe it's true that there's something in the room". Well, thanks bro. I couldn't sleep.
The hotel is actually still remains so many mystery. There's a creepy silent alley, and president room. They said Soekarno had ever slept there, and now when Megawati Soekarnoputri, fifth president of Indonesia, visit here, she would sleep there. Inside the president room, there was a big table, bunch of scary painting, round table with creepy chandelier and a small garden with a big sculpture (it was too dark and no lighting that leads to the sculpture. I think it is a sculpture of Ganesha, but i'm not sure, and i didn't want to go any further), but i didn't take photo. I recorded some, you can check my video of hotel Tugu, but not much in this room because i scared. I learned that some spiritual creatures don't like noise and camera. Well, i won't take any possibility, in fact i said in thought or aloud 'sorry', 'excuse me' every time i took photo.
My cousin tells me that this is the room that they dedicate to Nyi Roro Kidul, the Queen of South Beach, in our culture. In some hotels, especially near south java and bali's beach, they have one room that dedicate to Nyi Roro Kidul. They believe that she ever came to the hotel for a visit and slept there, and for some reason, for a tribute. At some point, i know Indonesian heritage, culture and myth are not inferior with world's famous myth, like warlocks, salem witch ritual, and everything that inside Harry Potter books.
......okay, blame it to my nerd side and weird interest of art history, mythology, fictional characters and everything relates. I said it's weird because even i know everything about it, in this 21st Century, no one cares. It's not like i will find a Shadowhunters or Archangels.
Oh, where i slurred. I must be so sleepy right now.
And here's a coffee after all creepy things! I hope i will have more nice trips later.
Jl. Tugu No. 3
(0341) 363 891
Malang, East Java, Indonesia